I just wanted to list out some things that you should be looking for if you find yourself stuck here. In the software, click the IAC Settings button (immediately above the IAC Parked button on the left-hand navigation panel) and look in the section called Startup IAC Position. Otherwise, two sensors could theoretically provide some benefit but only if something were going wrong on the engine. Love the example at the end. There are just turn downs after the electric cut outs. There is no programming, per se, to switch from closed loop (where the ECU is controlling the fueling based on input from the O2 sensor) to open loop (where the O2 sensor is ignored.) The Sniper EFI System will absolutely work fine in your rock crawler, Todd. There is very little downside to having IAC Park Position be too big. Not much I can add to that. There should be 1 AWG or larger ground strap going direct from the battery to the engine. The mid-way point between -40 and 160 degrees is 60 degrees, not 40 degrees. Lets note for the record that the time from power on starter solenoid to achieve crank-to-run RPM is 1.13 seconds. Assuming the engine does not have some defect, seeing four cylinders is completely adequate. I'm worried that the engine will stall at idle. EMI is what wipes out all the electronics. Beyond that you're going to have to get Holley tech support involved. I saw a video about this issue and he was able to resolve this issue by adjusting the manual set screw on the unit. Runs, then dies. Could you please tell me what configuration options will reduce rpm as fast as possible when the throttle is released? I would add a 12v-switched relay to power your Sniper. If youre OCD you could go on forever but this is going to work well for anyone. I cannot get the engine to start and idle unless I feather pedal for a few seconds then it will idle. If the fuel pressure is a little low don't worry about that. Thanks. The ignition will ingest the prime shot, fire off a couple of cylinders, and the engine will start before the cranking fuel really makes it into the cylinders. One thing didn't make sense to me. Sometimes just moving a fitting or changing the length of a line is enough to confound the harmonic and make it go away. Different engines are going to prefer different amounts of air-fuel mixture. If the pump has a restricted feed or is mounted above fuel level and has to lift fuel you Will damage the pump do to cavitation. Will going further help more? Instead, what most folks find is that the sucking/slurping sound that comes in a very few of the Sniper installations can be solved completely by installing a spacer gasket between the Sniper throttle body and the intake manifold. If that works then try halving them again. Several things to cover here. Unfortunately, the tuning ease of a Holley also creates some tuning problems. Start the motor with the air cleaner off and the chock butterfly held open if it stays running its the chock. Part throttle sucking sounds. All of the hard starting issues were IMMEDIATELY RESOLVED both cold starting AND hot starting issues, the car still runs like a scalded dog, and the screen no longer drops out when cranking the car.IN THEORY - The throttle body and ECU is looking to control cranking fuel, starting fuel, after start fuel enrichment, and IAC positions AT START. Starts & immediately dies. If your O2 sensor is pegged lean, then replace it. Price Point: $$, EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. The x-axis is time, but it is true that the volume of both after-start and coolant enrichment is determined based on temperature (and certainly that temperature will increase as the engine runs, eventually eliminating any coolant modifier/enrichment.) The Coolant Temperature starts at 106% and decays to 100% at 160 degrees. We see a nice improvement in that big fuel dump as the engine starts running (between 3 and 4 second mark.) Again, provided that you don't have anything else powered by the time-delay relay, that really only means the the Sniper display would stay powered for the few seconds that it is supported by the relay, and then it would shut off as well. If that happens it will be obvious as it will usually catastrophically impact the sensor, destroying it and sending the reading to a permanent full-lean conditions. Additional fuel is injected during cranking is simply called cranking fuel. Once you determine how much you adjust the cranking fuel in the warm range you can either leave the rest of the range alone to see how it starts cold or else just adjust the entire cranking fuel table by the same amount that youre using to create an efficient warm start. Hard to answer. Where do I start looking for the solution? Are you running timing control? A throttle linkage extender and a progressive linkage kit. As a result, this same engine may not start well cold. Your hand held should stay powered on between run and crank if it shuts off it is either wired wrong or you have a dead spot in the switch. Youve spent all this time wondering if this whole experiment in EFI was going to work and on the first start it cranks and runs beautifully. THAT'S A PROBLEM!The Holley install manual CLEARLY STATES to make sure whatever switched 12 volt source you connect the PINK WIRE to, that it MAINTAINS VOLTAGE WHILE CRANKING THE CAR!! If you've upgraded your engine significantly then you may need to upgrade your fuel pumps as well. Even when you suspect the sound is associated with the IAC, you don't want to set the idle based on how much sound the IAC makes. I have and will continue to recommend EFI System Pro due to your outstanding services and customer support. I'm glad that worked for you! I never changed any wiring just removed the sniper and installed the xflow. Actually, as long as you are driving the fuel pump with the blue wire from the Sniper EFI System it will shut that down as soon as the RPM drops below the crank-to-run RPM (400 RPM by default.) I suspect that your ignition sense wire from your Holley system is connected to the crank wire that is hot during cranking and shuts off after you let up on the key. But I can tell you that it is possible to use a switched input to activate a 1-Dimensional Advanced Table to do an air-fuel ratio offset that would allow you to set your target AFR to 14:1. Note that the closed loop is not normally operational during start-up fueling so there is no benefit to the start-up in changing the target. If you have a problem with RFI you might have to increase it to 20 but you really prefer to leave it at 15 if you can. Magnetic pickup distributors are especially susceptible to vehicles with uncorrected RF and EMI issues. Nice catch, Ken! Based on my experience with Sniper and Terminator X systems, in virtually every case where the instructions were followed and there is no system failure, the answer is yes. But what if it doesnt? Figure out what it's not getting and the find out why. Regardless, this screw will eventually need to be adjusted. Im not looking for timing control just upgrade to EFI. Question is, do I just plug what was the return at the throttle body? Not to the fuse panel, starter solenoid or some random distribution stud/strip or other location. classic car or truck It appears to be in throttle body? Thanks. So try cutting both of those numbers in half and see what happens. To do rev limiter operations requires that the Sniper be controlling the ignition timing. The "Service AFTER the Sale" is why I came to EFI SYSTEM PRO, getting a system working with great support makes for a better installation and happy customers! Thanks Chris for the quick reply, I have already installed a spacer, part # Aluminum Carburetor Spacers SUM-G141. If not, then the orientation of your O2 sensor is not your problem. Most import. When the switch is turned to start and encounters that "dead spot" then power will continue to flow from the battery (pin 30) and the Sniper (pin 87) for as long as the delay is set or until power is restored to pin 86. Much appreciated! It is also coming through the idle air port. My car idles beautifully @ about 800rpm. What is important is that you understand what happens at this point. First, it is fake news that EFI doesn't like big cams. This is the crank-to-run RPM. Not perfect but not bad. Pin 85: To Ground He then cycled the key off then back on again and TPS was back to 0 and the idle was back down to around 800rpm. It is going on a 1966 coronet with 1964 413 wedge. Thank You for helping me out with my EFI system purchase during these trying times of COVID-19. The fuel pump should turn off after 5 seconds until the motor is started. Also check your cranking voltage if it starts hard. RPM Above Idle to Re-Enable Idle Control.You could simply drop 2.) Can I get clarity please? Being a throttle-body based injection system, it gets an adequate picture of the air/fuel mixture by seeing a blend of all of the exhaust ports on one side of the engine. We can adjust that with the after-Start enrichmentIll bump that up a bit. EFI doesn't have feelings--it doesn't care what cam you use. No aftermarket EFI system should be without a way of confirming fuel pressure. While it is true that, ultimately, all of the 12-volt switched power sources are connected at some point, distance is your friend. Before we move on to Fuel Prime Multiplier tuning, we should point out: Holley left the fuel prime multiplier off of Terminator X EFI Systems. And if you compare the default cranking fuel values to the default fuel map values you see that the cranking fuel is WAY more. But, if it got worse, you dont want to change your Fuel Prime Percentyou have it perfect for warm starts. I always recommend fixing one thing at a time. And 10 micron filter between the pump and throttle body. Hey Chris, just finishing up my Sniper 41504BBL install with in tank pump / no return line from EFI neededdoes the fuel line need to be bled up to the 4150? Chris, this is going to be an easy one. Lets dig down into that a bit and see if we can help. Stay up to date with the latest releases, events, promotions and more. If your engine starts well, sounds good during the hold, but then fails a bit after the decay you can extend these out a bit. But I have never heard of anyone else who has had success doing this. If I let it prime twice, it starts much faster. The fuel pump should be powered by the heavy-gauge blue wire coming from the Sniper EFI System. I bet this fixes your problem. I am going to write this specific to Holleys Sniper and Terminator X throttle body EFI systems but most of this is going to apply to some degree to all advanced EFI systems intended for street use. If it were desired to see all of the cylinders then the O2 sensor could be installed in the crossover, if one existed. 10.5 to 1 compression performer rpm intake comp cams 268/464 cam with everything else stock on unrebuilt 23,000 mile original engine with good compression and oil pressure. How did you install the return line to the tank? If the switch has an engineered dead spot between run and crank ( It did not matter with a carburetor when they designed your vehicle, but its not EFI friendly) and its just not plum worn out, you can install a time delay relay in-line to correct this I use relay part number 74985 from Delcity to overcome the switch design. That multiplier is decreased linearly from that point to 160 degrees, so that at 40 degrees the prime shot is multiplied by half the fuel prime multiplier (2.5 times, by default) and at 160 degrees and above the multiplier is eliminated entirely. Am i doing the right thing? The Del City Time Delay Relay is pinned just like a normal relay. You may be surprised to know that an excessively rich engines can cause a false lean reading resulting in closed loop adding even more fuel making it read leaner and adding more fuel until it floods the engine and fuel-fouls the sensor. That is pretty straight forward. Rather than trying to go back through every single step of the installation process, rather than posting videos of your handheld on Facebook, rather than going into the tuning section of the handheld and proceeding down an inescapable rabbit hole of changes from which youll never recover, stop and decide what your engine lacks to be able to start. Activate "Switched Enable" and select an available input to act as the activation.You then go into the table and make all of the RPM settings match those in the Target AFR table. If you turn the ignition off and back on, & crank it, it will start & die again. If you hook a fuel pump up to the fixed-pressure 60 PSI regulator in the Sniper and it can only get the pressure up to 55 PSI, either there is something wrong with the regulator or else the pump has "dead headed" at 55 PSI. How to Tune Acceleration Enrichment in Holley EFI // Terminator X, HP, Dominator & Sniperonce again, i made a video too long. Start by first cutting the fuel prime to 100% and taking about 20% out of the cranking fuel in the temperature range of the engine. Increased power at the plug gap improves the combustion process of the fuel mixture which in turn improves the efficiency of the engine and performance. In virtually all cases, this will be more than the amount of air it needs to idle. Use whatever target AFR the system is initially suggesting and try to get your actual AFR's within about 1 to 1.5 of that value. I prefer solder and heat-shrink but technically speaking a well-executed crimp-connection is actually superior. I have a 88 f150 302 with factory efi and dual tanks. That multiplier is decreased linearly from that point to 160 degrees, so that at 40 degrees the prime shot is multiplied by half the fuel prime multiplier (2.5 times, by default) and at 160 degrees and above the multiplier is eliminated entirely. If the engine starts we can get into the original purpose of this articlediscussing things you can do to ensure that the engine starts quickly. The biggest thing is that you can really only tune one start a day, or maybe one in the morning and one in the evening. How efficient is your engine startup? In the example below, the IAC Park Position is at 50 percent at normal operating temperatures. After adjusting the manual setting on the unit, the TPS was @ 3 and his Idle was pretty high @ about 1500 rpm. I strongly recommend EFI System Pro. In my experience startup fuel tends to be too much. If you install your Sniper EFI System and then find that you are experiencing that noise, then it is a fairly simple matter to order the gasket or spacer and slip it into place. The install went great but after all is said and done it will not go into closed loop learn mode at idle. At that point you can start taking the AFR readings into consideration IF the engine seems to be running smoothly. HP ECU's. The Sniper EFI throttle-body drops in place of your carburetor. 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